Melissa’s Soapbox

Casco Viejo District

Andy and I spent a day in Casco Viejo, also know as the Old Part, the Old Compound, Casco Antiguo, or the San Felipe district which was founded in 1673 by the Panamanian elite of the time. The old Panama city (Panama Viejo) was sacked by the pirate Sir Henry Morgan in 1671 causing the King of Spain to order the rebuilding to occur on a safer and more defensible site. About 5 miles southwest of Panama Viejo, the rocky pennisula at the foot of Cerro Ancon, along with a protruding reef, provided more city security expecially at high tide (which is very evident in the below pictures taken at low tide). In addition, a huge stone and brick wall was built. The wall was so big and extensive that when the King of Spain received the bill, he asked whether the wall was built of gold or silver.

When canal construction began in earnest in 1904, all of Panama City existed where Casco Viejo stands today. The city’s population was about 30,000 which is around the same as when Morgan sacked the original city. Since the business and financial explosion caused by canal construction and traffic, Panama City has expanded so far to the east that Casco Viejo became a small district in the southwest corner of the modern capital city.

Declared a UNESCO (United Nations for Education, Science and Culture) World Heritage Site in 1997, Casco Viejo is an interesting mix of different cultures and eras with its narrow cobblestone streets, sprawling sprawling balconies, and unusual blends of Spanish and French influenced architecture. Evidently, Casco Viejo has always had a romantic and colonial look, but for decades the romance has been of the peeling paint and slightly bombed out variety. However, a large-scale restoration effort is turning the area into a fashionable destination that gives the French Quarter a run for its money.

Traditionally the home of Panama City’s poorest residents, Casco Viejo is still considered a rough part of town even during the renovation process. While the vast majority of the district’s buildings are in shambles, restoration has produced some fabulous residences and apartment buildings at surprising prices. We constantly ran across real estate deals with the corresponding laundry list of tax and investment incentives. Even so, the policia de turismo cruise around on bikes, short-pants, and extremely large and menacing automatic weapons making sure that tourists and investors alike feel protected.

The Lonely Planet guidebook suggests a walking tour of the area, but we were accosted by guides looking for work the minute we stepped out of the cab. I smiled and waved at our Spanish speaking guide, and evidently that meant he was hired. Between the guide book and his noble attempt at charades, we learned a lot about the area! Best of all, this guy must spend a lot of time in Casco Viejo as he knew literally every single person we encountered. He also sweet-talked the stern and well-armed guards at the Presidential palace into letting us through to see the herons.

The surrounding views from the Casco Viejo district are really amazing because of its location. The skyline views are displayed in my previous post, and below is the view of the Amador Causeway and boat traffic waiting for clearance to enter the canal.